Discovering Hvar: Croatia's Lavender-Scented Paradise
- Amy Leggett
- Aug 10
- 5 min read
After a few days in the bustling cities of Zagreb and Split, our Croatian journey took us to the beautiful island of Hvar. Hvar is known for its' upscale, luxury vibe and frequent celebrity sightings. However, we were in Hvar in early May, way before the crowds arrive and the movie star parties begin. Our experience of Hvar was of a peaceful, gorgeous island with a low-key, relaxing energy. Just what we needed after visiting the bustling cities of Zagreb and Split.
Arriving on Hvar Island:
We took a ferry from Split to get to Hvar Island. It takes about two hours but is an enjoyable ride across the Adriatic sunning on the top deck. During the high tourist season of June-September, there are 7 daily departures from Split, the rest of the year there are 4 daily departures. Click here for the ferry schedule to plan your transfer.
Visit the Island Towns of Hvar Town and Stari Grad:
There are two main towns on Hvar Island-Hvar Town and Stari Grad-and you definitely need to explore both. Hvar Town is the main attraction with its Venetian architecture, ancient fortress sitting high above the Adriatic, vibrant nightlife and, of course, the possibility of rubbing elbows with the rich and famous. The other town is Stari Grad and offers an experience completely opposite of Hvar Town. Stari Grad is a charming, Mediterranean village with a more relaxed energy and cheaper prices! The ferry from Split will drop you off at the Stari Grad port and you can take a taxi or bus to Hvar Town. If you are staying in Hvar Town, you can get back to Stari Grad the same way. You can also rent a car or a scooter to explore the island and get between the two towns. Depending on traffic (especially during the busy season) the trip between the two towns takes about 20 minutes. Check out various tours of Stari Grad or Hvar Town which may include transportation around the Island.
Stari Grad:
Stari Grad (which is a Slavic term meaning "old town") is literally the island's oldest settlement and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It offers a quieter alternative to Hvar Town's glitz. Founded by the ancient Greeks in 384 BC, its narrow medieval streets wind between stone houses where flowers and vines spill over ancient stone walls. The Stari Grad Plain maintains the original Greek agricultural layout after 2,400 years providing a glimpse into the island's deep history. In late June, the lavender fields around Velo Grablje and Brusje are in full bloom transforming the landscape into purple blanketed rolling hills and spreading lavender scent into the air. Unfortunately we were too early to catch this magical site. But if you miss the narrow window, do not despair! You can purchase all sorts of lavendar items-lotions, oils, soaps, lavendar cookies, lavendar chocolate...the list goes on.
The town of Stari Grad is filled with charming cafés, winding cobblestone streets, unique shops and peaceful seaside paths. I loved the slow, relaxing pace of wandering around Stari Grad and wished we had more time to explore. I guess I will just have to go back!
Hvar Town:
On the other end of the vibe spectrum is Hvar Town (especially from July-Septemberj). As I noted, we were there is early May so the crowds were not hopping yet. Still, there is a distinctly different vibe on the other side of the island. It feels more glamorous and glitzy, probably due in part to the fancy boats and yachts anchored off the Hvar Town pier.
The main square in Hvar Town is Trg Svetog Stjepana. It sits beside the harbor and is surrounded by sidewalk cafes making it a perfect spot to grab a quick bite and a refreshing cocktail while enjoying the sea views and people watching. At the other end of the square is the impressive St. Stephen's cathedral providing a dramatic backdrop for your photos.
After your relaxing cocktail, wander the charming, winding streets of Hvar Town to scope out all of the amazing restaurants tucked away from the main square providing a quiet spot to enjoy dinner. We chose to eat at Dalmatino primarily because it had an extensive gluten free menu for my Celiac daughters (turns out the owners granddaughter has Celiac so it inspired her to provide a gluten free safe space...we were so excited!). Not only did Dalmatino have gluten free options, it was an amazing dining experience with delicious meals! Dalmatino's is a restaurant with deep family tradition which they share with their guests. Each meal begins with a welcome drink of sour cherry rakija, a traditional fruit brandy, and a slice of homemade polenta cake. Other local brandy tastes are offered throughout the meal between courses. The service was exceptional and the food was amazing (and the Espresso Martini was delicious!j). They even provided blankets as the air chilled after the sun set! If you are in Hvar Town I HIGHLY recommend this restaurant. Check out their menu and other information about Dalmatino here.
For amazing views of Hvar Town, you need to go to the Spanish Fortress Hvar (also called Fortica or Tvrďava Španjola in Croatian). The Spanish Fortress sits high above Hvar Town and provides a glimpse into the history of the island in addition to the panoramic views. We took our tour bus up to the Fortress, but you can walk up the Spanish Fortress trail if you are feeling like a work out! The trail up to the Fortress would provide amazing views on the way up and the way down, but it will be steep. If you are not looking for that kind of challenge on your vacation, you could take a taxi up to the Fortress (about a 5 minute drive). If you have a rental car, there is public parking available outside the Fortress. You could take an organized tour which will not only transport you to the Fortress but will give you information on the history of the Fortress as well. Look for Fortress tours here. There is a small café in the fortress where you can grab a drink and and a snack (which you will especially need if you took the trail!). Here are some examples of the amazing photos you can snap from the Fortress.
Where to Stay on Hvar Island:
My tour group organized our accommodations and we stayed at Beach Bay Hvar. It was a very nice hotel with an amazing pool area and close access to the beach. It was a short walk to the main square, but you get there by strolling along a nice path right by the Adriatic giving you an amazing views of the harbor and the sunsets!
Check out other accommodation options on Hvar Island if you would like to be right downtown or if you are looking to stay in Stari Grad or another lowkey location on the island. The busy (in other words, crazy) season is from July to September, so that may influence prices and the kind of vibe you will get at each location.
Conclusion:
If you are visiting Croatia, definitely carve out a few days to spend on Hvar Island. You will enjoy the relaxing beach vibe, the lavendar scented air, the small local wineries, and, if you are there during busy season, maybe some celebrity sightings!
Your post makes me want to pack my bags and head to Hvar! I stopped there briefly a few years ago as part of an all day boat trip and I knew there was so much more to see and experience! Stari Grad sounds so special!