Mont Saint-Michel: A Granite Island, a Mystical Abbey, and Yes, Real Quicksand!
One of the most unique sites you can visit in Northern France is Mont Saint-Michel. Mont Saint-Michel is a tidal island and medieval commune rising out of a bay that sits between Normandy and Brittany. Pictures are spectacular, but to see it in person is awe-inspiring.
A Quick Bit of History:
Mont Saint-Michel is a gothic abbey built on top of a granite island in a bay off the coast of Normandy. The abbey is crowned with a golden statue of Saint Michael. Legend has it that the abbey was founded in the 8th century after the bishop of a nearby village claimed the Archangel Michael appeared to him three times in dreams asking for a sanctuary in his honor to be built upon the tidal island.
The abbey is surrounded by a tiny medieval village with narrow winding streets leading up, up, up to entrance of the abbey. The village is filled with historic houses, shops, restaurants and a hotel. The island is surrounded by defensive ramparts. The architecture on the island physically mirrors the feudal social hierarchy of the Middle Ages when it was constructed. God and clergy on top (the abbey), followed by nobility's housing, with peasants and shops at the base. Only a few dozen people live on the island year round. Everyone else, and there are A LOT of everyone elses, is a visitor.
The bay surrounding Mont Saint-Michel has some of the highest and fastest tides in continental Europe. During high tide, the tides come in rather quickly covering the roads and walkways. In a matter of minutes the island becomes completely isolated. In addition to the the high tides, the bay also contains pockets of quicksand so it is dangerous to venture out onto the surrounding bay during low tide unless accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. These natural barriers have provided protection to Mont Saint-Michel over the centuries.
Since1023 Mont Saint-Michel has been a pilgrimage site for Western Christians. Pilgrims made the journey to ask Saint Michael for protection and salvation of their souls. There was a brief period in the 17th century that the abbey was used as a prison after pilgrimages began to decline. The prison was closed in 1863 and the abandoned abbey was dilapidated until it was listed as an historical site in 1874 and restoration began. Today, Mont Saint-Michel and its bay are a UNESCO World Heritage site that hosts millions of visitors and pilgrims each year.
What to See and Do on Mont Saint-Michel:
Walk the Grande Rue: When you first enter Mont Saint-Michel, you enter through the defensive ramparts and come upon the charming medieval village sitting below the hilltop abbey. There is no fee to enter through the ramparts and wander around the village.
Once you enter into the village, you will see the Grande Rue, a narrow cobblestone road winding up to the abbey. It will seem even narrower if you are there during a busy period and walking up with some of the millions of visitors who make this trek each year. The Grande Rue is lined with shops, crêperies, and souvenir stands. Is it touristy? Yes. It is also a fun, slightly chaotic gauntlet with high energy. There are plenty of side stairways and ramparts that you can sneak off to if you need a moment to break from the crowd.
Stroll the Ramparts: The base of the island is surrounded by defensive ramparts that were originally built to protect the Mont from English forces during cross-Channel conflicts. The rapidly changing tides, the quicksand and the ramparts have helped keep Mont Saint-Michel safe. Strolling along the tops of the ramparts provides amazing views up to the abbey and out into the bay. If you time your visit to see the high tides come in, standing on the ramparts provides a spectacular view! There is no cost to walk along the ramparts.
Visit the Abbey: The superstar of a visit to Mont Saint-Michel is the abbey dedicated to Saint Michael. A ticket is required to access the abbey. However, if you are there on the first Sunday of the month from early November to end of March, you will enjoy free access to the abbey. There are various ways to tour the abbey. You can take a self-guided tour, an immersive tour with a tablet, a tour with an in-person guide, or a family tour. Check out the options and the ticket costs for each tour. The cost of a general admission ticket, which gives access to most rooms of the abbey, depends on when you are visiting. During high season (4/1 to 9/30), a general admission ticket is 16 Euros; during low season (10/1 to 3/31) tickets are 13 Euros.
Regardless of what kind of tour you choose to do, you will need to get yourself to the abbey on the top of the hill. The route is steep and involves many stairs, making it difficult for those with strollers, disabilities or limited mobility. It is no joke and was definitely challenging.
Once you make it through the climb, you will be rewarded by spectacular views, a gorgeous gothic church and historic buildings constructed to honor Saint Michael. It is definitely worth the cost of admission and the physical effort!
Admire the Bay: You can time your visit to experience the high tides which brings the bay waters close to the base of Mont Saint-Michel. The bay has some of the biggest tidal ranges in Europe and during the highest tides the water can surround the Mont entirely cutting off all access. Check tidal times to plan your visit. Two high tides and two low tides happen each 24 hours. Twice a month the high tide reaches its highest point and peaks around March and September equinoxes. It is during this time that you can experience the peninsula becoming and island. If you plan to visit during this highest tide, make sure to arrive at the parking area at least two hours before the tide comes in so you can make it to the Mont. Plan to be on the Mont at least 1.5 hours until the tide goes out again.
Even though you will see many people out walking around the bay, it is highly discouraged due to the quickness of the incoming tides as well as the pockets of quicksand. When I was younger I was petrified of quicksand. I'm not sure why as I didn't have a lot of opportunities to come across quicksand growing up in Colorado. In any event, imagine my anxiety when they advised us not to venture onto the bay due to the possibility of quicksand. You don't have to tell me twice!
If you wish to venture out onto the tidal flats, it is possible to hire a guide. They will know where the quicksand spots are (and hopefully rescue techniques in the event you unexpectedly come across a quicksand patch!). They should also be informed of the incoming tides so you won't be caught unaware trying to outrun the incoming water.
Practical Information About Visiting Mont Saint-Michel:
When to Go (and When Not To):
Hours:
From 5/1 to 8/31: 9 am to 7 pm
From 9/1 to 4/30: 9:30 am to 6 pm
Last Entry Allowed 1 Hour Before Closing
Go early or go late. The busiest time on the island is late morning through mid-afternoon. If you arrive at opening or stay later into the evening, you will enjoy a more relaxed visit on the Mont.
Go during low season. July and August are the busiest months. Shoulder seasons in the spring and fall will give you a bit more breathing room (but just a bit...Mont Saint-Michel is always popular!).
How Much Time You Need: Plan more time than you think. There is so much to explore. Half a day is a minimum, a full day is better.
What to Wear: You will want good shoes walking on the cobblestone streets and climbing all those stairs. Even on sunny days the bay breeze can be cool, so a light jacket will be helpful. If you are going during off season when the weather is cooler, plan appropriately.
How to Get There:
By Car-The Mont is about a 4 hour drive from Paris. Regardless of where you are coming from, if you drive you will park in the big lots on the mainland. There is a fee for parking. There is a free shuttle that will take you to and from the parking lot to the Mont. You can also walk along the walkway for dramatic views of the bay and the abbey. The walk is about 2.5 km.
By Train-Take a train from Paris Gare Montparnasse to Pontorson, then a shuttle bus to Mont Saint-Michel (about 2.5 hours by train plus a short bus ride).
Organized Tour-Several bus tours operate day trips from Paris and major cities, providing transport and sometimes guided commentary.
Should You Make the Trek to Mont Saint-Michel?
I absolutely think you should plan to include Mont Saint-Michel on your northern France itinerary. It is a unique destination that will take your breath away. And where else can you actually encounter quicksand?
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