The Perfect Day in Avignon: Pedals, Palaces and Provençal Wine
- Amy Leggett
- 20 minutes ago
- 7 min read
If you are planning a trip to southern France-or even if you are not-let me make a case for putting Avignon at the top of your travel bucket list. I had a chance to visit this incredible walled city on my recent riverboat cruise on the Rhône and I left absolutely enchanted. From the moment you catch sight of the massive medieval ramparts that surround the city and stretch along the Rhône, you know you are somewhere special.
Unfortunately we were only in this magical place for a short stop on our journey north, but it was more than enough time to realize what a hidden gem it is (and to start thinking about a return trip!). I will highlight the experiences I had and let you know other must-see spots that are on my to-do list when I make my way back to Avignon.
A Quick Bit of History (Trust Me, You Will Want to Know This!)
Here is the thing that makes Avignon unlike anywhere else in France: for much of the 14th century, this was the center of the Catholic world. Not Rome...Avignon. Between 1309 and 1377, seven successive popes relocated here from Rome, turning what had been a small, modest Provençal town into one of the most powerful and cosmopolitan cities in all of Europe. The papacy eventually returned to Rome, but Avignon kept everything that had been built during those extraordinary decades, which was quite a lot!
This backstory gives Avignon a weight and grandeur that you can feel the moment you step through the city gates. You are not just visiting another pretty French town. You are walking through a place that once held the fate of Catholicism in its hands.
I had chosen to do a bike ride in the morning of our stop in Avignon (more on that in a bit) and we had a wine tasting at Chateauneuf-du-Pape AOC in the later afternoon (more on that in a bit, too), but I could tell that the city of Avignon was a place I wanted to explore more before we left. I was able to squeeze in a few hours rambling and roaming through the winding cobblestone streets with no specific destination. In my opinion this was the perfect way to experience this magical destination. I stumbled upon some amazing sights as I wandered.
Pedaling for the Best Photo Ops!
We started the morning with a beautiful bike ride. Our riverboat provided the bikes, but bike rentals are available in the Avignon city center so you can take your own amazing ride in and around Avignon. We met outside the city rampart walls which was quite the dramatic backdrop for our morning ride (see the pic at the top of this blog). We cruised along the outside of the city walls and over a bridge to L'île de la Barthelasse or Barthelasse Island. Barthelasse Island sits across the Rhône from Avignon. It splits the Rhône thereby classifying it as an island. In fact, it is the largest river island in Europe! It remains largely agricultural but also has numerous areas devoted to recreation and relaxation. In addition to the (mostly) flat tow path to walk, jog or pedal, there are many grassy areas to sit and take in the views of Avignon.
One of the highlights of a visit to Barthelasse Island is the variety of photo ops you can find. You won't get a better view of the skyline of Avignon and the Pont d'Avignon with reflections in the waters of the Rhône! As you bike through the vineyards and orchards (cherry, pear and apple), you will want to hop off your bike for a rest and snapshot. Although you may want to remember to take off your bike helmet for a cuter photo...just sayin'.
Barthelasse Island is 700 hectares and only has 1,000 inhabitants. It is primarily farmland and as you cycle on the various paths they will take you past farm stands where you can buy fresh produce from the local farmers. You will also pass beautiful houses and small churches making your bike ride feel enchanting.
You can also make a stop at Maison Manguin, an artisanal distillery on Barthelasse Island that specializes in fruit brandies, liqueurs and Mediterranean spirits. They are famous for their Poires Williams (pear) brandy with a whole pear inside the bottle (how do they do that?!?). I was going to buy some to bring home (if only for display), but it is a specialty and the price reflected that. They offer a variety of experiences including a food and spirits pairing, cocktail workshops and seminars. Check out this interesting distillery, their products and their experiences here.
The Old City of Avignon: Wandering Without a Plan
One of my favorite memories from my trip was aimlessly wandering in the old city of Avignon. I simply spent time getting lost inside the ramparts. The medieval walls that surround the old city are remarkably intact---over three miles of them---and what's inside is a dense tangle of cobblestone streets, fountains, shaded squares, and buildings that have been standing for six centuries.
As I wandered, I stumbled across many of the highlights of Avignon as well as some incredibly beautiful hidden spots I might have missed if I was following a stricter route. I took turns when I got the urge, climbed staircases even though I didn't know where they went, and explored walkways and squares that called to me. I was completely taken by this city with its deep and meaningful history and its stories pulled me in the direction I needed to go.
Les Halles d'Avignon:
I started my explorations at the covered food market, Les Halles d'Avignon. Located near the center of the city, it is where French locals buy their fresh produce, meat and seafood and where tourists flock to find a typical Provençal treat. Come to shop, look for unique products, or socialize over some oysters and wine (like my friends did). It is a treat for all your senses. The outside vegetal entryway only adds to its allure.
Historic Buildings:
Palais des Papes-The Palais des Papes in Avignon (pictured above) is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. Serving as both a fortress and a palace, the papal residence was the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century. As noted above, seven popes were in residence at the Palais (and six papal conclaves were held here). It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site given its importance. I did not have time to visit the inside of this unique building, but would definitely make it a must-see if I am lucky enough to return to Avignon. Click here for information on touring the Palais des Papes (there are discounts for combining tickets to different attractions). It is one of the 10 most visited monuments in France with over 650,000 visitors a year. It goes without saying that you should buy tickets in advance if you intend to include Avignon on your travel itinerary and want to see the Palais.
Pont Saint-Bénézet (or Pont d'Avignon)-Another UNESCO World Heritage site, construction of this historic bridge commenced in 1177 taking eight years to complete. It was an engineering marvel at the time and served as an essential means of crossing the Rhône. Over the years the costs of upkeep (due to repeated flooding) and the declining importance of the bridge led to its abandonment. Only four of the original 22 arches and the gatehouse are all that remains. Over 300,000 tourists come to visit the abandoned bridge each year and it's worth the admission fee to walk halfway out over the Rhône and look back at the city. As noted above, there are discounts if you bundle admission to both the Palais and the Bridge. I did not have a chance to walk out on the bridge, but as I wandered with no plan I found myself at a high vantage point in one of the Les Jardins du Palais des Papes (or the Pope's Garden) which gave me an amazing view of this historic bridge.
Les Jardins du Palais des Papes-As I strolled taking in the beautiful sites of Avignon, I came upon a staircase. I don't know why, but I decided to climb it. It kept going and going (causing me to question my decision), but when I got to the top I was rewarded with beautiful views in all directions (including the view of Pont d'Avignon above). I also came across one of three Les Jardins du Palais des Papes. I got to experience one of the "high" gardens commissioned by one of the popes who were in residence at the Palais des Papes. It was a beautiful, serene spot and I feel so lucky to have experienced it.
Avignon Cathedral-As I walked down from the gardens I came upon the Avignon Cathedral. It was Easter Sunday and the crucifixion statue outside the Cathedral was a reminder of the day.
I could have continued to wander around Avignon taking in the sights, but it was time for our wine tasting so I had to head back to the boat.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
Chateauneuf-du-Pape AOC is a well-known, prestigious wine appellation located in the southern Rhône Valley. It is most known for its full-bodied red wines often made from a blend of up to 13 grapes with Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre being the most prominent. Chateauneuf-du-Pape was the first AOC established in France in 1936 and set the standard for other regions. I was traveling with two wine experts who were very excited for this tasting, so I knew we were in for a treat. The tour/tasting gave a brief tour of the Maison Bouachon facility where the wine is barreled and stored while we were told of the particulars of the terroir that make the wine from this appellation so special. I am primarily a white wine drinker and this region produces mostly reds, but I did enjoy the wines I tasted (so much we ordered some bottles to be shipped home!).
Until We Meet Again, Avignon
Avignon completely won me over and was one of my favorite stops on our riverboat cruise. It has interesting history, great wine and amazing architecture. If you are putting together a southern France itinerary, do not overlook Avignon in favor of the more obvious stops. This city has more than earned its place on the map. I promise you will not regret it!
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